I played tourist again yesterday, after a couple days’ break. My first stop was to the House of Terror which, by its name, seems to indicate that bad things happened there. But that was just a hunch before I got there. The building was used first by the Nazis and then the Communists in Hungary as a prison and torture chamber, targeting Jews and anyone else they suspected of disagreeing with the government. The museum is an historical record and a memorial to the many people who were tortured and murdered there.

The building was retrofitted with an imposing steel "ribbon" along its edge
This museum was one of the best I have been to. Obviously its subject matter is fascinating and emotional, but the way it was designed was brilliant. Art and history play equal roles here. Each room evokes a new feeling: sickness, sorrow, anger, curriosity, frustration. You couldn’t take photos inside, but I found a few online that shows just a small portion of the large museum.

The museum's many rooms all face towards this inner courtyard. The faces of the victims were carved into tiles and displayed on the walls.

At the time of the Nazi and Communist occupations, most Hungarians identified themselves as Roman Catholics. This room tells the story of how many people were forced to practice their faith in secret.
I spent nearly two hours here and I was blown away. I must confess I knew nothing about the history of Hungary before this. They have been caught in the crossfire of many wars over the years.
After the emotional experience of the House of Terror, I met up with Chris and a group of others at the Széchenyi Spring Baths for some needed relaxation. It was three hours of pure bliss. The biggest decisions I had to make was whether to go in a mineral bath, a steam room, a sauna, or the outdoor hot baths. It was the most difficult three hours of my life.

Entrance to my own personal heaven.

The outdoor hot springs

I love this building. If we ever buy a house, I am going to paint it this color. Do you think the neighbors will mind?

If you ever search for a picture of the Széchenyi Baths, this is probably one of the first you'd see: a group of old-timers playing chess by the side of the pool. Classic.
We hobbled out of the baths and went to a new club in town to have drinks with friends and watch short films about dance. The drinks were good, the fims–not so much. Films about modern dance always end up capturing the worst cliches about modern dance; all the writhing on the ground and dancing among industrial ruins gets to a person after awhile. But the club was cool:

Much merriment was had by all.
Chris and I then called it a night and came home to bowls of delicious pesto pasta (we found rice pasta!!) and a tasty Greek salad made by my one true love. It was a lovely day.

Gluten-free deliciousness.